Total immersion

I love being in water. The inspiration to paint comes when I’ve been in a river or the sea. And on a recent surf trip, I found myself thinking how much artists and surfers have in common.

The enduring image of surfing is the person tucked in a barrel, wave curling over their head. But what you don’t see in the photo is the build-up to that moment. Surfing demands patience alongside determination. Using judgement, adapting approach, applying courage, accepting risk, recovering from mishap. To me, that sounds pretty much like the process of painting.

There’s also an extreme sense of presence in both activities: total immersion, mindfulness, a flow state. The contemplative gaze too. A surfer has a watchful eye on the horizon, examining the incoming swell: is that a wave? Where is it peaking? A painter is constantly evaluating where the process is going: how is the paint drying? Should I intervene now, or wait longer?

Art helps us navigate the imprecise and ambiguous things we encouter in life. And surfing is an extreme case of navigating of uncertain ground. A wave is ambiguous, it can tease and mislead you. You need to embrace the uncertainty.

Surfing happens in the grey area between knowing your intention and accepting the limitations of your control. You can apply your energy, skill and judgement, but circumstances can overwhelm you, the wave can catch you unawares. And if that’s the case: keep calm as you’re tumbled in the water, wait to resurface, take hold of your courage and start paddling again. That’s good advice for anyone working as an artist too.